Kit Review published in Marine Modelling magazine
April/May 1995

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The Hull: Due to the large volume of the hull, to prevent it distorting during construction, firstly build the stand from the full size templates shown on the drawing. Where the hull sits on the stand, line this with felt of foam material (an old computer mouse-mat). Weighting the model hull down into the stand, using small bags of sand or other suitable ballast will obviate any tendency for the hull to twist, be aware of this until all the decks are secured in place. All light filing and sanding removes the faint mould line in the hull, followed by an overall abrading of the external surface with a fine grade wet and dry paper, then rinse the hull off with water, which leaves an ideal keying surface for painting. 
The forward deck sits down in the hull, and above this the internal hull sides are finished with a fine tissue, sanded down and skimmed over lightly with a car body filler. This forms the forward bulwarks, and the rear deck sits flush with the top of the hull. Note that no trimming of the hull is required, perhaps a sanding to square up the edge to a flat level from the stern to the superstructure side upstands.

The Running Gear: Prior to marking out the positions for the running gear, apply masking tape approximately over the area, this gives an ideal surface to pencil on and, when drilling out the positions, helps prevent damaging the fibreglass. The two 'A' frames are stamped P and S, as the angles are different, so it is important to hand them correctly. Check for a running clearance of the shafts in the 'A' frames, measure the diameter of the shafts firstly, and carefully run the same diameter drill through, preferably by hand to avoid ending up with a sloppy fit.
Dry assemble the components of the running gear, as care at this stage and accuracy of marking out goes a long way to 'hands off' straight running of the completed model. Note the propshafts exit the hull as little as possible to give adequate clearance of the propellers from the leading edge of the rudders.
For final gluing into position, the instructions advise Araldite, but Stability Express is another alternative, and this sets in approximately 20 minutes. While the adhesive is curing, turn the shafts occasionally to check that they are free running in the 'A' frames because, as the adhesive sets, it is possible there may be slight movement, just enough for the shafts to run out of true in the 'A' frames.  The white metal of the 'A' frames does give a good bearing surface for the shafts, and with occasional oiling it is not necessary to fit brass bushes. 
Included in the kit are a pair of vacuum formed motor mounts, in which the motors sit secured with rubber bands. This is also the stage at which the rudder servo mount may be fitted, constructed from scrap plastic sheet accessible through the rear hatch. A framework of plastic strip fitted about the centre line holds in position the main drive battery, on the review model a maintenance-free gel-cell, 6 volts, 10 amp-hour, more than sufficient for the average sail at the pond.
Hull side windows, freeing ports and mooring ports are drilled and filed out in the hull, and these positions are lightly moulded in the hull. It has crossed my mind, why are the positions of the running gear not marked in a similar fashion? Then again, with the accuracy of the drawing, is this really necessary?
Not included in the kit, but an option which may be considered for fitting at this stage is a bow thruster. Having witnessed the vessel arrive in the confines of Penzance harbour and manoeuvre alongside the quay so precisely with the aid of the bow thruster, just to add that extra touch of realism to the model, a Robbe unit was installed. For those interested, the part number is 1156, as specified for the Robbe Berlin kit.

Main and Fore Decks: The main deck fits inside the hull flush with the top edge, so mark a line around the inside of the hull with a pair of compasses set at slightly over the thickness of the deck. Plastic strips are glued to this line to support the deck, and fixing them a little below the line allows for trimming of the top edge of the hull to deck level. The fore deck also sits on similar supports, but fitting these is where the reviewer deviated from the instructions slightly. The main and fore decks sit in the hull at the same level when viewed from stern to bow. Fitting of the main deck and the H beam supports finally to the hull  (note the aft deck hatch is off-set, make sure it is the right way around!) provides a level surface which can be used to strike off, using a 12 inch ruler on edge, to the forward bulwark the position of the deck strips plus the thickness of the deck material down. This seemed simpler and more accurate than the instructions suggested, of sighting from the transom forward and marking the line, satisfactory perhaps for a young pair of eyes!
The actual fitting of the forward deck support strips requires much shaping to take into account the hull angle at the bow, the position of the forward deck in respect of the height is quite critical also, as this governs the fitting of much of the superstructure. Once the decks are in place, with hold sides and stern hatch surrounds fitted, it is surprising how stiff the model becomes without the requirement for any further deck supports.

Hatch Covers: The instructions describe the building of the folding hatches that work as on the full-size vessel, or an optional one-piece hatch. Yes, the one-piece hatch is an alternative, but the effort to produce the folding hatches certainly enhances the finished model, and they really do work as has been proved on the completed review model. Do make sure when fitting the hydraulic crane at a later stage that the jib slews, because to open the hatches the crane has to be slewed 180 degrees from the stowed position!
The jack rams and hinging mechanism completes the installation of the hatches, again painting before final fitting, or with careful drilling and needle filing the hinge pins can be withdrawn to remove the hatches at any time if required.

Lower Superstructure: The assembly of the lower superstructure requires particular attention and care especially where the styrene parts abut the fibreglass sides, and you should trim and trial fit details holding in place with masking tape, and only gluing into place when a satisfactory fit has been achieved. Reinforce all inside corners with strips of 6 x 3 styrene. This is an area where filler will be needed, an ideal product used straight from the tube with a reasonable setting time is 'Green Model Filler', available from most model shops and widely used. NOTE! once in place, access is difficult for brush or spray painting of the lower superstructure, notably the aft panel and side loading door. Remember also to glaze the hull side windows, front portholes and aft windows at this point.

Wheelhouse: Before constructing the wheelhouse, place the floor over the lower superstructure and ensure the forward edge follows the profile. Trim the floor as required, because the wheelhouse is a separate assembly and when glued finally in place this method avoids unsightly gaps.
Weighting the floor down on a flat surface, the wheelhouse sides are fitted, painted and glazed. The detailed wheelhouse interior consisting of consoles, monitors, instrument panels and skipper's chair are best painted then fitted to the interior. Gluing the roof in position completes the wheelhouse.

Stern Deckhouses, Port and Starboard: Both deckhouses can be made 'off the model' and glued on to the deck as complete assemblies in the same manner as the wheelhouse, and again the bases should be positioned on the deck to check that the outer edge follows the outer curve of the hull when in position before fitting the sides and ends.
Perhaps at this stage it is worth mentioning the handrail stanchions, as now is the time to drill out their positions. Before painting the assemblies, mark off from the drawings and drill the stanchion positions in the deckhouses, wheelhouse etc. Using a strip of wood drilled to accept the stanchions they can all be spray painted before fitting, a technique which can be used for the majority of fittings, or double-sided tape where the gluing face is flat. Wherever possible for that crisper paint line it is preferable to paint assemblies prior to gluing to the model.
For gluing the deckhouses onto a ready painted deck, a useful glue is R/C Modellers Glue, a thick tacky glue, which dries quickly, clear and flexible to painted surfaces.

Deck Beams: The wooden deck beams, cut from strip wood provided in the kit, sit between pairs of white metal angles, and these require painting before assembling to the deck beams which in turn need to be sanded and sealed with varnish. Alternatively prior to painting the decks, these can be glued in place to the drawing dimensions leaving the prepared beams to be fitted at a later stage when installing the tank mountings for the side petrol tanks and final fitting of the aft access hatch.

Deck Railings: Supplied in the kit for the handrails are lengths of steel wire, and this needs to be thoroughly degreased and abraded with emery cloth before use. The instructions suggest soldering or gluing the handrails in place, and provided the surfaces are a clean metal to metal joint, the rails are accurately formed with no distortion to fit in place; using thick cyano supa-glue provides an adequately strong joint for that which is always a vulnerable part of the finished model. Should the rails be accidentally knocked, it is normally a simple task to re-glue without incurring further damage to the paint or fittings.
The instructions do wisely suggest making the rails in shorter lengths rather than trying to form them in a complete length, especially where there are several bends involved. The joints can be made to butt together at the centre of the stanchions avoiding unsightly external joints.

Mast: This is straightforward assembly from the full-size drawing provided, but the wooden dowel for the mast in the kit was substituted with similar diameter alloy tubing for the review model, purely a personal choice, but one which in my opinion is easier to more precisely drill for fittings and an instant surface for painting. The instructions suggest mounting  the mast such that it is removable for transportation, a sensible idea, but remember to make the aerials removable also! This does reduce the overall height of the model by some 9 inches.
The mast safety cages, of which there are two, were to me the most difficult part of the kit. Winding wire around a piece of 12mm dowel to form the hoops, soldering them up with the uprights, then fitting in position on the mast, took several attempts and many hours to fabricate to the full-size drawing, but certainly by following the instructions it all came together eventually! They are so prominent on the model, a second class job here would certainly earn criticism from the experts!

Hydraulic Crane: The crane support is a plastic tube cut to length which fits into a hole in the deck. At the top are a series of spacers and rings, which when assembled must be free to turn to allow the crane to be slewed to open the cargo hatches. Plastic tubing forms the hydraulic hoses glued into short lengths of wire, and to route the hoses and to tie them together, small strips of black insulating tape can be used. Model Slipway do have their own display model with the deck crane operational, and certainly there is plenty of room and access in the hull for those who may be tempted.

Radio Installation: As previously mentioned, with the main drive battery and motors installed, two function radio with a single speed controller and rudder servo is one option, or as in the review model, multi-function with twin speed controllers to each screw, rudder servo and a Bobs Board controlling the bow thruster, there are many options open and is best left to the individual modeller to choose.
My choice is a pair of M.E.S. speed controllers linked together to give proportional control of each motor dependent on rudder movement. This results in excellent manoeuvring, and coupled with the bow thruster, docking characteristics are very authentic. A Bobs Board controls the bow thruster.

Final Assembly and Fittings: This paragraph covers briefly a large percentage of their highly detailed model, but following the detailed instructions precisely, there should be no problems with the sub-assemblies, white metal fittings, vacuum formings and positioning of these items on the model. The anchor winch is a self-contained kit. The white metal fittings of this assembly require just the minimum of cleaning up prior to paint as is the case for the remaining dozens of fittings. Degreasing is advisable before applying an acrylic primer coat of paint, using an aerosol of automobile primer which is ideal for this purpose, filling in the odd imperfections and generally providing an excellent base for the top coat of enamel. The instructions contain a colour scheme listing the Humbrol paint code numbers.
The lifeboat, deck container, liferafts and vent cowls are vacuum-formed mouldings, these do require careful trimming and sanding away of excess material. The deck container parts were difficult to put together with a hint maybe of an error in these, nevertheless an acceptable assembly did result.
The name of the vessel Gry Maritha is painted along the port and starboard sides of the hull in extra large lettering, and those on the model are printed on styrene sheet requiring careful cutting out. When positioning these letters on the port side, set the lettering aft of the side loading hatch, which is further aft than shown on the drawing for the starboard side. There are numerous waterslide transfers to affix, again there are useful tips in the instructions as how to apply them.

Ballasting and Trials: The displacement of the model is in the order of 30lbs (14 kilos) and with a length of 42 inches fills the test tank i.e. the good old bath! Offcuts of lead from the local roofing contractor are a good source of lead, or alternatively lead shot which these days is difficult to find and normally expensive. The lead sheet squeezed up in the vice is as good a solution as any, distributed along the length of the hull as low as possible to float the model just above the designed waterline. This did take an appreciable amount of lead, so it is probably advisable to make the ballast removable to lighten the weight of the model for transportation and then ballast before sailing at the pond side. Certainly there is sufficient access in the hull to enable this to be carried out.
On the water and the model under way, one has the immediate impression of an extremely stable cargo ferry, the two 545 motors providing ample power creating a large bow wave. The turning circle with the proportional mixing of the twin screws was excellent and for slow speed manoeuvring and docking, the Robbe bow thruster provided ample power to bring the bow alongside and turn the model in its own length.

Conclusions: Not a kit for a beginner, but for those with a reasonable amount of building experience coupled with the excellent drawings, detailed instructions provided in the kit and the accuracy of the styrene sheet parts, this should be within the scope of most modellers. Yet again this is an excellent kit by Model Slipway, a pleasure to review and build, especially having had the chance to witness the original Gry Maritha enter Penzance harbour and to photograph the vessel at close quarters.
My thanks to the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company and to the crew of Gry Maritha without whose cooperation this excellent kit could not have been produced to the high standard achieved by Model Slipway.

© Gordon Libbey 1994

Model Slipway, 77 Arundell Drive, Lundwood, Barnsley S71 5LE, United Kingdom. Telephone & /Fax: +44 (0) 1226 770008