Delivered from the Model Slipway via the
Editor, the kit arrived well packaged in a sturdy corrugated cardboard,
sleeved box. The kit comprises nearly one thousand parts, a glassfibre hull,
32 inches long, with rubbing strips and detail moulded in, five styrene
sheets of die-cut parts of varying thickness from 0.75mm to 1.5mm and a
further two sheets of silk printed parts. White metal castings make up
the many winches, Atlas net crane, deck fittings, Becker rudder, Kort
nozzle, propeller. Liferaft canisters, radar and net pond ends are
vac-formed mouldings, mast and booms of wooden dowel and thirteen lengths of
varying diameter steel wire for handrails, railing, mast supports and
aerials. Two sheets of general arrangement drawings, sadly not to scale, are very well supported by several
exploded construction drawings with all relevant dimensions where required.
Comprehensive assembly instructions with general information to aid the
builder, detail parts list, boat stand template sheet and suggested colour
scheme complete the paperwork. Netting material, rigging cord and a set of
waterslide transfers are also included in the contents of the kit.
HULL: To support the hull, the
first task is to fabricate a boat stand, of 10mm plywood, from the template
and instruction sheet. The substantial fibreglass hull required very little
cleaning up. Lightly file off the mould lines, carefully remove any
irregularities to the top of the hull, and finally with fine wet an dry
paper light abrade the external surfaces to provide a key for painting. Fill
any imperfections in the surface of the hull and rinse with cold water.
Three cut-outs, one in the stern and each side of the hull are roughly filed
out and left undersize at this stage.
RUNNING GEAR: This consists of
a Kort nozzle, a propeller, two-piece Becker rudder, and propeller
shaft. Care must be taken at this stage to ensure that all parts fit
together correctly and hinge smoothly throughout the operating range. The
white metal castings for the rudder assembly, Kort nozzle, rudder tube, skeg
and propeller require a high degree of cleaning up and filing, it is also
advisable to paint them with primer prior to final assembly. A pad for the
rudder tube block is moulded into the hull, this position is drilled and the
rudder tube temporarily fitted, likewise the rudder, skeg and nozzle
support. At this stage ensure with the details loosely assembled, that the
rudder operates smoothly throughout its maximum arc movement. Next mark the
centre of the nozzle on the keel moulding for the position of the propeller
shaft. Drill the hole and fit the motor/shaft with the propeller assembled
and that when rotated, blade tip clearance is adequate. File ends of blade
if not, or in my case the screwed thread was marginally cut off centre
requiring one blade to be trimmed to permit running clearance within the
Kort nozzle. Commence final assembly of the running gear by gluing in the
shaft and supports with two-part epoxy followed by the rudder tube and
remaining items, again checking that all is aligned and operates smoothly.
To keep the motor clean and free of debris until the model is complete, tape
a plastic bag over the motor.
Now is the most convenient stage to upturn
the hull on an even surface. Mark off the water lines and top line of the
hull, colour olive green in this instance. Mask off and grey prime using an
acrylic aerosol spray can available from car accessory shops rubbing down
between coats and filling where necessary. Follow this with a coat of red
oxide to the lower hull. Mask off the water line and upper line and paint
the hull olive green. The white area should be left until completion of the
aft bulwarks and decks.
DECK BEAMS: Before fitting the
deck beams, the hull side access ladders are assembled to the previously
made cut-outs in the fibreglass hull. The centres of the deck beams are shown
on a separate drawing, numbered from A to E. Their positions measured from
the stern forward must be made as accurately as possible, this is because
the deck hatch cut-outs align with the edges of the beams at a later stage of
assembly. The beams form an H section of parts cut out from the styrene
sheets, trimmed and fitted to the hull sides with epoxy glue. Ensure that
the beams are a sliding fit within the hull sides so as not to distort the
hull profile.
MAIN DECK: This is in two-parts cut
out from styrene sheets, main and rear deck. Mark off and lightly pencil in
the centre lines and also on the deck beams. Place the main deck on the hull
with the edge of the centre hatch opening and the edge of the wheelhouse
opening in line with the edges of the deck beams so that the deck rear edge
fits on the centre line of beam E. The rear deck forms a butt joint at the
centre line and also supports the rear deck hatch at its front end. Before
finally fitting the decks in place, main deck battery box, speed controller,
servo mounting, radio and associated wiring should now be fitted while
maximum access to the hull is available. The aft hatch, wheelhouse and
forward hatch are removable on the completed model. Glue in place the main
deck and using masking tape and clothes pegs, hold in position until the
glue has dried, fit the rear deck and sand the decks to the hull profile,
fill any gaps as necessary between the deck and hull. The coaming for the
hatches are fitted next, mark on the centre line which aligns with the deck
to give the height of the hatch surrounds, trim individually and cement in
place, be careful not to distort the deck at this stage when fitting the
coamings.
STERN HATCH: To the underside
of the stern deck are glued sides and ends to form a box. The ends should
first be checked against the deck curvature so that when assembled the
completed hatch sits flush in the deck opening, likewise bend the hatch
panel using hot water until this also fits flush into the hatch aperture.
With the aid of the exploded drawing the Atlas crane casing, net ponds,
hatch sides and gussets complete the stern hatch structure. The Atlas crane
housing aperture had to be enlarged before gluing the crane in position on
the stern deck hatch.
SIDE BULWARKS AND GANTRIES:
The bulwark/gantry sides are glued to the stern deck. For this type of joint
(plastic to plastic) where it needs to be fairly strong, Polyzap gives an
instant cynoacrylate joint. After cutting out the sides and gantry parts,
loosely assemble together ensuring the widths correspond with each other to
form a "square box" for the gantries, glue in place and fit the bulwark
supports trimming individually to fit snugly against the bulwarks to form a
strong side structure. Forward of the port gantry assemble the details for
the vent and using the general arrangement drawing determine its position
and secure in place. The vent is a typical assembly which may be completed
and painted after the deck and bulwark have been painted and glued to the
finished surfaces using Aeromodellers glue which dries clear, flexible and
waterproof. Fit the aft bulwarks, channel sections and removable boards.
This is an ideal stage of
construction to mask off and paint the white area of the hull and the decks
grey, the less detail fitted at this stage the easier it is to complete the
larger areas of painted surfaces.
WHEELHOUSE: The
instructions and drawings of the assembly of the wheelhouse which consist of
over one hundred parts, if followed precisely, make up easily into quite an
elaborate structure, the cut-out parts fitted together precisely with the
minimum amount of sanding. The tip in the instructions to assembly the
wheelhouse on the deck hatch surround makes for a good fit of the wheelhouse
to the curve of the deck. The basic structure completed, sand off the joints
and paint the exterior white before glazing and furnishing the interior,
also drill holes for fittings, handrails and any other items. If attempted
after glazing and assembly of the roof, the drill swarf always seems to be
drawn like a magnet to the glazing spoiling the appearance of the
wheelhouse.
There are no external doors
in the wheelhouse, the reasons being the vessel operates in the most arduous
sea conditions so crew entry is via the hatch to the port side of the fore
mast, along a shelter deck and up a companion way in the lobby through a
door into the wheelhouse. Provision is made for emergency exit through the
two side windows that act as escape hatches.
The wheelhouse interior,
painted, can now be glazed and furnished with the completed sub-assemblies
such as chart table, crew seats, instrument console, weather fax, radar
plot. To this may be added by the builder numerous other odds and ends and
perhaps interior lighting!
To complete the wheelhouse,
the roof, sides and ends fitted with the front wind deflector were painted
and lined before assembly and funnel, net sounder winch and base,
floodlights and guard, navigation light boxes and remaining details were
glued in position. The yellow and white lining tape used is available from
model shops and comes on a roll of varying widths produced by Model Technics,
this adds the finishing touch to the wheelhouse and hull.
FOREMAST ASSEMBLY:
The wooden dowel for the foremast is sanded to a taper from top to bottom,
the diameter size at the top to accept the mast centre casting to which is
also fitted the dowel for the upper mast. This assembly is sanded and
painted, rubbing down between coats to fill the wood grain - an aerosol can
of cellulose spray putty or aeromodellers sanding sealer is invaluable for
this task. The foremast sub-assembly is glued to the deck at right angles to
the waterline, not to the deck! The four foremast supports are cut to length
from 2.4mm dia steel wire. These locate in the mast centre casting and at
their lower end to holes drilled in the deck. The wire should be first
thoroughly degreased and lightly abraded to provide a key for the glue and
paint. The braces for the foremast supports were shaped at their ends to fit
the radius of the supports and cyno glued in place. The builders choice as
the instructions do advise soldering, probably stronger but not always the
neatest of joints depending on one skill with a soldering iron!
COMPLETION OF DECK
FITTINGS: Positioning of the handrails and stanchions is very much
simplified in this kit with the provision of a drawing annotating all the
relevant dimensions - the centres are drilled 1.6mm dia. Paint the
stanchions before assembly and fittings. Progressively bending the handrails
can be tricky. For this reason it is best to make breaks in the lengths and
form butt joints in the middle of the stanchions. (Manufacturers note:
handrail wire now supplied as 1.5mm brass). Note that there are five
different types of stanchion and a drop down section on the port side for
use when unloading at the dockside.
The two liferaft canisters
are made up from four thermo-formed halves. Alas! these for me were a
disaster and were made from plastic tubing filled an shaped at their ends,
plastrut strip glued in place to represent the stiffening bands and black
trim tape to represent the joint of the two halves. Assembled to the cradles
and fitted to the deck. This was the only deviation from the kit parts as
supplied.
The white metal fittings are
too numerous to list, but are best individually painted before locating in
their respective positions on the model. With the bow logo cut out, painted
and fitted, the model should now be complete. Painting of the model at the
correct stage is a personal choice of most modellers, thus the instructions,
other than numbering the Humbrol recommended colours, does not detail
painting. The final painted surfaces were sprayed with several coats of
thinned down varnish, this protects the finish and makes the cleaning of the
model after sailing a simple task.
ON THE WATER:
The radio installation is a Futaba two channel, one channel for the rudder
servo, and the other channel plugged directly into the receiver for the
speed controller. Main drive power is supplied by a 12 volt 6amp/hr gel
battery supplying also a diesel sound generator. Note! the battery should be
laid on its side as low as possible in the hull and the ballast also, the
model carries of lot of top weight! Ballasted to the water line the model
has an all up weight of about 20lbs. The Becker rudder and the Kort nozzle
makes for a very manoeuvrable model, turning almost within its own length,
reversing under lower power is reasonable, an ideal regatta boat. Although
frequently commented as deep hulled and ugly on its stand, once in the water
it becomes quite a pretty sight especially with a little wind blowing
creating choppy conditions; with a weight of 20lbs it must be stable!
CONCLUSIONS:
The kit was a pleasure to build and would suit beginners also with a little
help from fellow club members. For the experienced modeller a superb choice
of subject for weathering and further detailing. Criticisms: none of any
significance. The two crew figures supplied appear to be of differing
scales, the white metal castings, perhaps were a little heavy and over
scaled
in places but the end result is an excellent scale model of a shelter deck
trawler and most certainly a fine club regatta boat.
© Gordon Libbey
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